Master's Review | Summer 2020

A Tale of Two Quarters

Well, this half year really has been, with apologies to Charles Dickens, a Tale of Two Quarters.

Wednesday November 13 was a date that will remain engraved on my memory: the day I became Master. Taking the oath of office in front of the Court that afternoon and, again, as I pledged my word to the Company during the crowning ceremony at the dinner that evening, were surprisingly emotional and humbling moments, as the responsibility of being the 537th Master since our initial charter, and of preserving and enhancing our proud traditions and contribution to City life, fell firmly onto my shoulders.

The half started well with an excellent Confirmation and Associated Companies Dinner and the Associated Companies Christmas carol service, where we had a full house, with familiar carols, a typically thoughtful piece by our Chaplain, and beautiful anthems from the choir of St Michael’s Cornhill.

The turn of the year brought plenty of activity and a real sense of optimism that 2020 was going to be fabulous – and, at that stage, for most of us “Corona” was just a very fine Mexican beer! The early part saw four important events in our calendar: the Candlemas service and lunch; the Prizewinners Lunch; the Hotel Restaurant and Catering Show; and the Springboard Future Chef competition.

With the increasing national focus on diet and nutrition, and, by association, with cooking, our relationship with City University and the forthcoming National Food Strategy is becoming increasingly important, so it was fitting that the work submitted by their MSc students in a food-related subject merited two prizes to them at the Prizewinners Lunch In early March, I spent three days at the Hotel, Restaurant, and Catering show. This is the revitalised and enlarged Hotelympia – four trade shows running simultaneously and occupying the whole of the south side of the London Excel Centre – and, at that stage, none of us could have envisaged that, within only a few weeks, it would be transformed into the first Nightingale emergency hospital.

We sponsor prizes for young chefs at the Salon Culinaire and I’d been booked to present a few on day one. I was so impressed by the quality of the show and the astonishingly high standards of all the events, that I stayed for all three days and was even inveigled into judging some competitions as Freeman Harry Lomas’s honorary apprentice!

I had the chance to talk to a wide cross-section of the leading Hospitality professionals, many of whom had never heard of the Company, and to spread the word about what we’re seeking to achieve, especially with our apprentice programme. Four members of the Company deserve particular mention – David Mulcahy, Steve Munkley, Harry Lomas, and Mark Codgbrook, with Anita Lomas working behind the scenes. I highly recommend all members of the Company and, indeed, anyone connected to the hospitality industry, to attend this show in coming years.

The City Food Lecture, particularly the buffet afterwards is always a good opportunity to catch up with members of the other Food Companies and, this year, the Clerk played a blinder by ensuring that seven of our Apprentices were presented to The Princess Royal. Particular thanks must also go to the Clerk for his part as a member of the organising Committee.

My final event before lock-down was to present prizes for the annual Springboard Future Chef competition, which is part funded by the Cooks. It involves 15,000 young people from 700 schools in regional competitions (including Northern Ireland this year for the first time), resulting in a dozen teenagers being given a short time to produce a two-course meal. The quality was remarkable, especially considering the ages of the competitors, and well up to the standard of many of the events I’d seen a couple of weeks earlier. It’s a worthwhile investment in the future, teaching young people as much about diet and nutrition as it does about cooking.

Pancake Race – Master & Mistress

My final event before lock-down was to present prizes for the annual Springboard Future Chef competition, which is part funded by the Cooks. It involves 15,000 young people from 700 schools in regional competitions (including Northern Ireland this year for the first time), resulting in a dozen teenagers being given a short time to produce a two-course meal. The quality was remarkable, especially considering the ages of the competitors, and well up to the standard of many of the events I’d seen a couple of weeks earlier. It’s a worthwhile investment in the future, teaching young people as much about diet and nutrition as it does about cooking.

While there were so many enjoyable occasions in the first couple of months, and there’s no space to mention them all, one stands out: the annual pancake races, in Guildhall yard on Shrove Tuesday, organised by the Poulters Company. This is a bit of fun but with the serious purpose of raising money for the Lord Mayor’s Charity. Some Companies take it seriously, even down to training and wearing proper running shoes, but the Cooks, despite the Clerk’s best efforts, have always taken a relaxed approach, being more interested in socialising at the lunch afterwards rather than trying to win! So it came as something of a surprise when I took honours in the Masters’ Race but, sadly, suffered a time penalty because I failed to ground my frying pan properly at the end, so the trophy went to the Gunmakers.

So to lock-down! Though events have all been cancelled, the Company’s business continues to be managed and the Court has met very successfully, if virtually. We’re thinking about events that we may be able to run via Zoom so that the fraternity aspect of Company life can continue.

Whilst we are sad about the cancellations, I ask you to think about the dreadful impact this is having, and is likely to have for a while, on the hospitality industry. Even with government support through the furloughing scheme and business-rate holidays, the prospect of social-distancing continuing in one form or another until a vaccine or medication are developed and produced, could have a devastating impact – especially on small businesses who will find it harder to diversify and for whom a 70/75 per cent occupancy is essential to break even.

With that in mind, Cooks Charity trustees have earmarked a six-figure capital sum. I suspect we’ve only seen the tip of the hardship iceberg so far and there will be greater demands on our funds as the summer and autumn progresses.

I’ve been one of the lucky ones during this period of lock-down in not having to worry about day-to-day work. It has given me the time to think about the future and mull what the Company stands for and what should be our priorities. One thing is certain: life will not be the same as before.

The Court had planned to hold a strategic away-day during the summer for some navel-gazing and to look forward a couple of decades but, like many other things, it’s had to be postponed.That’s a pity but it does give us longer to think about the shape of the hospitality industry after Coronavirus, and where the Company fits into the overall pattern.

The Charity doesn’t have inexhaustible funds so any additional contributions that individual members can make would be welcome – and I’m conscious that many do already make monthly or annual donations and others give their time and expertise pro bono. It’s simple to donate and there are suitable forms on the Company website. One excellent suggestion is that, as we’ve all saved money by not attending events in the last couple of months and there won’t be any others until the autumn at the earliest, we should donate all or part of the saving to the Cooks Charity. I wholeheartedly commend the idea.

My final word must be to thank the Court publicly for offering me a second year as Master – subject, of course, to formal election in September – to make up for the curtailment of most Livery business and events during my planned year and, in particular, to Virginia Bond, the Second Master, for being willing to delay her year.

As we move out of lock-down into a brave new world, and I write this article in my garden enjoying the ninth week of continuous sunshine, I send everyone my best wishes for a good summer and ask you to stay safe and be careful – and I hope that this sunshine is a positive omen for the post-Coronavirus world.

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